Over Pchum Ben and my last weekend in Cambodia, I fell into a pre arranged mission/idea that had been formulated by the Dynamic James and Daring Meg. The brain child of this pair was to cycle from Phnom Penh to Takeo (80km) and then the next day Takau to Kampot (105km). We hired a local guide who turned up the morning of Day 1 with a guy on a motorbike – our hero Panya (coincidently his name illustrates his heroic powers, related in sound to panniers, he carried my over packed bag for the 2 days on his bike – not sure what I was thinking when I originally packed it or perhaps I’ll just admit to not thinking!) Sar our wonderful guide took us out of Phnom Penh into the stunning countryside of Cambodia, with it’s dirt roads, emerald green paddy fields and the foreva smiling and laughing villagers and of course the expected “hello” birds (Cambodian children who’s favourite game is addressing hello to any traveler in the vicinity).
The first day was done gently, my bottom only starting to get a touch sore towards the end of the day. Lunch time we had quite a long stop which included a crazy idea of climbing a few hundred steps to see a local temple – this put the finishing touches of tiredness on the leg muscles – especially on the way down. Late in the afternoon we passed local K’mai celebrations at a dam near Takau, this was ideal for a beer break for Collette and I hoping to numb the last few kilometers.
Takau was very quiet and basically closed due to the holiday celebrations which is like Xmas where it’s all about family and definitely not about work. Did have to giggle at the mock Independence monument in the centre of town, slightly smaller than the original in Phnom Penh and a poor copy, apparently they may be going up in every provincial town. We were in bed by 8.30pm because we are such party animals!
The next morning started out really well, took a while for the bum to numb but felt like things were moving nicely, until the bumby roads. Luckily the scenery was stunning enough to take my mind off the uncomfortableness of any position or contact with the sadle. We pulled on to the main road at a place called Hani and were told it was about 25km til Lunch – tarseal all the way! This sounded fine and about 4km on we stopped for a sugar cane drink break……and luckily refueled with a snack.
Collette and Megs decided a snack of eggs would do the job, until realizing that there were small beginnings of duck featus inside. I was hungry, I had no quams and had to bear their horrified indignation for the rest of the trip….I have a feeling it may be a point I am never allowd to live down. However luckily, for the starving collette and megs, at this stop there were “the best6 cakes ever!!!” – small sweet sponge cakes about the size of mouth size muffins, that were sweet and soft and fluffy……Roll over devils chocolate fudge cake, after 20km’s of cycling these were the winners of any cake contest and a far cry from fetal duck eggs!!!
After our refuel and decision to get to Kapong Track for lunch – Sar told us it was a mere 10kms – this info he had picked up from a road sign, imagine our horror when we passed another road sign for Kapong Trach ¾ hour later that said 10km! At this stage the sun was beaming harshly, and although it was one of the most stunning bits of country side with limestone mountains, palm trees, beautiful villages and paddy fields foreva – my bottom and tiredness were a distraction. Megs hit her wall – it was at the point when in our minds we were expecting to be close to Kapong Trach, having guessed we must of done the 10km by then, when she was told by Sar it was another 7km – in her calculations since we left our snack spot and after an hours ride we had only done 3km!!!! When that evening we looked at a map it was 45km from Hani to Kapong Trach – and Sar’s 10km was indeed approx 35km.
We managed to stop for lunch just before Kapong Trach and Meg decided as she had indeed got to Kampot (kampot province) she would go ahead and secure the beers for when we would arrive at the hostel. The afternoon bike ride I found really enjoyable but was always wondering where was the sea – it felt so close but could not see it – turns out we were basically cycling around a huge bay. Eating Squid at the afternoon break in Kep was not a good idea – it looked so delicious on the BBQ but it’s richness did not mix well with a tired stomach.
We hit Kampot just on dark and luckily found our way to Bodhi Tree which is a funky guesthouse situated on the river. Imagine our horror after swims and shower when the kitchen said there was no food as their staff was on holiday. Luckily sensing our gob smacked look could quickly turn into irrational hunger anger we were hooked up with a restaurant that does take aways. Every one really enjoyed their food except for Collette who managed to knock her beautiful curry on the floor before even having one bite…..she had to be happy with everyone elses potato’s.
The night turned into a great party with a K’mai guy providing entertainment on the guitar and singing K’mai songs. Collette quickly got up – pulled a random tourist into the centre of the room and instructed everyone to dance K’mai style around the poor slightly stunned lad. We worked out only the Irish could get away with it – if the poor guy had complained, I’m sure the finger would of come out and he’d be told to suck it up!
Next day tuktuk’d back to Kep for a swim at Verandah – now similar to a resort with it’s fabulous swimming pool and I finally did the walk around the hill ( meaning to do it every other visit there). Now I begin my eulogy to the power of Royal D (electrolye drink mixed to the correct concentration!). Having done way too much exercise in the space of 3days my body was heading me for slumber, which we all knew would be uneasy as the beds were above the Bar and there was to be another party that night. So I sucked back a Royal D and lasted til 1.30 the next morning. Collette was also sleepy post having a few beers – she sucked back a royal D and we all got dangerously scarred she’d had some type of drug – she turned into a manic comedian for the next 20mins and we were well releved when she seemed to hit the end of the rush! James experience was not quite so good, which could be explained by meg mixing the royal D in his beer – turned into a frothy mass that when he drank it, made him feel nauseated.
I couldn’t of wished for a better way to spend my last few holidays in Cambodia. With friends and in the most gorgeous countryside. I am going to miss everything about Cambodia soooo much. I feel like a completely different person since 2 years ago, a little bit nervous about the new me settling back into life outside – could be a square peg in a round hole for a while and have to work out how to make it all fit – ( do I carve a square hole or remold the square peg back to a circle?).
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